Migrants and refugees pushed on the roads of exile, terrorism, natural disasters ... The instability that characterizes the world today has pushed designers to think this season, leading them to address strong themes such as that of protection and survival. This resulted in an outerwear with enlarged and rounded volumes to better wrap the body and allow functional multi-layered clothing. The pants are loose and comfortable (jogging or elastic waist). Nylon, which had pierced the last seasons, is omnipresent, as are the ultra-resistant technical fabrics. The man must protect himself against bad weather, but not only. He must be able to move and travel unhindered with all the necessities on him. It's a cold and hostile world that is coming.
1)Masked
Protect yourself from the outside and looks. The mask best symbolizes the theme of protection put forward by couturiers in their fall-winter 2018-19 collection. On the Italian catwalks, the man was masked literally as well as figuratively with hoods with a high collar revealing only the eyes, as demonstrators Black Bloc, balaclavas with skulls (Beyond Closet), hoods of the biker (The Soloist). Some creators have gone further, such as Moschino with his leather or latex masks and Palm Angels with his hoods spiked with metal spikes.
2)Multi-equipped nomads
Never like this season, designers have pushed the limits around the notion of clothing. It is no longer a matter of dressing, but of equipping against adversities, while promoting the movement and the long journeys of a man who must be ready for any event, as we have also seen in London with Graig Green and his clothes-tent or raft, while in Milan the survivors of the Himalayas of Yoshio Kubo are equipped with a deployed parachute.
One dress by stratifications, the long coats, or just their lining and other tunics, are worn under the jacket, under the jacket or even under a pullover with emergency clothes fixed in the back or at the waist (The Soloist). Reversible or decomposable garments are ubiquitous, as is the "two-in-one" offered by Bmuet (te) or Sunnei, where the backpack, ready to rise as "it bag" next winter, is downright incorporated in the back of a jacket.
3) Gloves
With the KAKA Backpack, it is the other accessory trend of winter 2018-19, provided it is original and visible, most often from the world of work: colored rubber at Undercover, mittens stuffed at home Fendi, long glamorous black gloves at Moschino, red leather embellished with Dolce & Gabbana, crocodile at Prada, biker leather with ties at Les Hommes.
4) Cowboy
Shearling, tartan, and corduroy are the big winners of this tour. These three elements (not to mention the jeans also present in great strength), characteristics of the western universe with their vintage side, the sheepskin coat returned to the checkered logger's shirt (preferably red and black at the Woolrich), passing through the velvet jacket, have invaded the catwalks, declining in all the sauces.
Caban, bomber model aviator, duffle-coat for shearling (Dirk Bikkembergs even offers it in a silver version). The Scottish pattern comes in sweaters, shirts, coats, and pants to wear, while the velvet sets with fine or large ribs are also ubiquitous.
The cowboy lode has gone through several collections, also by small touches, with the buckle or medallion belt and the typical leather lace tied around the neck with its metal eagle. We find the western style in the details of some shirts with chest pockets or in the decorations simulating the revolver cases on some pants.
5) The supporter's scarf
It's the coolest accessory of the season! And certainly the most commercial. In wool, with its long fringes and colorful markings, the supporter's scarf will be all the rage next winter. Versace proposes its personalized model with logo. Magliano uses it as a declaration of love for shy boys with the inscription "Be Bellissimo" all along. The brothers George and Michael Heaton, Manchester's creative duo of the label Represent, revisit the black and red AC Milan, in honor of their first parade in the capital of Lombardy.
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